traveling

UK: Final approach.

May 31, 2010

Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport was the fifth I’d visited in 10 days. I flew out of O’Hare, stopped through in Amsterdam, ended up in Edinburgh and London, and made my way back to the land of 10,000 lakes.

The fact that I actually had a layover in this flyover city made the eight-hour flight from Heathrow to Minneapolis seem even longer. The malfunctioning in-flight entertainment system probably didn’t help either. Neither did the Chatty Cathy sexagenarian seated next to me. I was ready to get out of that plane.
When we finally landed, I zigged and zagged around a herd of slow-moving elderly passengers, eager to collect my things, grab one last airport meal and get on with my last flight.

There was a long line at customs. Hurry up and wait.
Too bad I never served in the military; there was a special line just for veterans, marked with a sheet of plain white paper printed in bold, capital letters. The officer barking orders at her disoriented civilian charges — U.S. citizens and permanent residents in the middle, visitors all the way to the right — seemed desperate to honor a fellow serviceman with a salute and a shorter line. She rarely got the chance.
My line inched forward; when the uniformed officer finally motioned my way, I raced to the Plexiglas window and slapped my passport down. Let’s do this, sir.

“Hellooooo.”
“Hey, how are you,” I said, gazing past his armored cubicle at the already-revolving baggage claim belt. Sigh.
“Oh, you have a nice voice.”
Cue screeching needle on vinyl sound effect. That caught me off guard. Aren’t these guys supposed to be all business? Rude, even?
I softened, forgot that I was in a hurry to get to where I was going so I could sit some more for a flight that would wind up being delayed an hour anyway. I looked him in the eye and thanked him.
We made the official-business small talk about why I’d been traveling. Where I’d been. What I’d done while I was there. I told him I was a magazine journalist, reporting on a garden tour of the United Kingdom. Quickly assured him I hadn’t brought any seeds or starts back to U.S. soil. He didn’t seem to care.
He pulled out his stamp and cha-chunked my passport, then slid it back across the counter to me.
“Magazines, you said?”
“Yep.”
“Good luck with your reporting,” he said, looking down at his paperwork as he dismissed me. “But you should’ve been in television.”
I felt my face flush as I stammered another thank-you and hurried across the yellow line of near freedom into baggage claim. I grabbed my bag from the belt, beaming, and floated through the rest of security.

Back inside the domestic terminal, I was surrounded by…Americans.
Fat. Loud. Inconsiderate. America’s finest, all trolling the F terminal of the Minneapolis-St. Paul airport. My warm international glow chilled to a cold domestic disdain.

Not that 10 days in the United Kingdom turned me all Anglophile, but God, people in this country make me snarl. But they did lead me to ice cream. A few people lumbered past my gate from the central terminal, lugging carry-ons over their shoulders and attempting to balance waffle cones, bottled water and cell phones with their free hand.

I stumbled, in a trance, toward the food court. I found the Ben & Jerry’s counter and ordered a scoop of cookies and cream. Lugging my carry-ons over my shoulders, attempting to balance my cup of ice cream and iPhone in my free hand, I found a seat by the wide bank of windows overlooking the terminal.

Gate F3 stood empty, still awaiting the aircraft that would take me home. As usual, there had been no explanation for the delay. But away from the gate — away from the ogling maintenance men, away from the woman with her earbuds in, unplugged, and Justin Timberlake still blasting from her laptop’s tinny speakers — a little more waiting seemed bearable.

The food court was mostly deserted; occasionally, a lonely traveler or a group of airline crewmembers stopped to relax with a fountain drink and a heaping plate of cheap Chinese food. I sat in the early-evening sun, savoring my ice cream and watching the planes take off and land. Wondering if mine would ever show up.

It did, of course.

That last flight, Delta #2701, finally landed at O’Hare around 9:30 p.m. The Knight was waiting for me at baggage claim; the Shining Camry sat at the ready in the parking garage. Forty-eight hours later, I’m working through my jet lag and dreading even a shortened work week.

At least I don’t have to get on another plane.

5 comments

UK: Pacing myself.

May 26, 2010

I went for a run as soon as I got the key to my room in London. The process of getting into my “exercise clothes” left a trail of destruction in my cramped living quarters for the next four days; I tore clothes and shoes, power cords and bottles of out of my suitcase in search of socks, my running shoes and a pair of bobby pins to tie my hair back.

The entrance to my hotel looks out on Buckingham Palace’s back gates; to the right is St. James Park, a sprawling expanse of green nestled among the bustling streets filled with expensive cars and double-decker buses and black cabs. I wove through the crush of evening commuters streaming down the sidewalks until the park burst into view, a riot of green grass and spring color. A pond in the middle, bordered by wild perennials and sobbing, weeping willows teemed with ducklings and geese with beet-red beaks and pure white swans. They floated along, oblivious to humanity slowly encroaching on them.

The park was mobbed with Whitehall Street workers leaving the office. Just out for a stroll after work: dressed to the nines, all unassailably cool. Some girl made opaque tights and Daisy Dukes look passable; even a man crouched against a gate with a squirrel on his arm seemed more at home in London than me.

But I kept running.

I maintained my stride, darting around two tourists wearing Velcro passport holders around their necks, past a lady with frizzy hair, a unibrow and a five-foot lens on her camera taking pictures of ducks. Fall Out Boy screamed into my headphones — just like home — as I made my way back down Buckingham Palace road, past sandwich takeaways, souvenir shops and a bright red post box, and into my hotel lobby.

Nathan, my favorite doorman, mouthed, “You all right?”

Which I know is just something English people say. I learned that from Jamie Oliver.
Everything I need to know about London, I learned from Jamie Oliver.
I smiled back at him, huffing and puffing all the way up to my room. The women who shared my elevator were proper and polite but obviously happy to have rooms on the first floor.

Back in my tiny room, I peeled off my running clothes and stepped into the palatial bathroom. It’s nearly as big as the sleeping quarters, with pristine white tile floors, dark wooden fixtures and a shower the size of…a really big shower. No door or curtain, though, just a glass divider that spans about half the length of the tub. Very European.

I ran a bath.
A bubble bath.
It seemed like the thing to do after waking at 4:30 for an 8 a.m. flight, after going straight from Heathrow to Wisley Garden and walking around in the sun for four hours, after a two-mile run through a foreign city. I poured a tiny bottle of shower gel into the tub and watched the suds form; curls of steam rose from the water. The watered covered me completely, and the strain of the day’s travels melted away. My feet played with the soap bubbles, my cherry-red toenails like shiny pieces of candy.

I luxuriated. It was the first time I’d really taken for myself in days.

I didn’t doze off, but I rested the cushion of my messy bun against the wall and just…relaxed. I cracked the spine on a new paperback, taking in the start of a new story and the new rhythm of the writer’s voice.

I went out to dinner later, around the corner from the hotel. I didn’t feel bad that I wasn’t out exploring the sights of London by night.

There will be time for sightseeing and museums and exploring. But for the time being: a little rest and some writing. I think I’m coming to realize that I don’t travel like a tourist. And that’s fine. Amazing, even.

I used to take side guilt trips when I hadn’t done enough, but that all stopped in Paris. I think I’d rather just enjoy the one trip I’ve actually bought a plane ticket for.

So:
Hello, London.
Admit it: You missed me.

It’s been a long time since we last saw each other. What, ten years?
You showed me all your best museums; you showed me Harrod’s and Benetton and French Connection, and I couldn’t afford any of it. You showed me everything as best you could from the seat of my motor coach; you invited a group of well-to-do, barely-teenage white kids into your home, and we demanded pizza from Planet Hollywood, cheap seats at Miss Saigon and a chance at the newest Doc Martens after a day of Crown Jewels at the Tower of London.

I barely knew myself then; how could I expect you to understand what I wanted?
I promise I’ll be better this time.
I’ll peer back into the mews; I’ll listen closer for the twinges of Cockney and Newcastle in your residents’ accents. I’ll talk to locals and ride the Tube and look up when I walk. I’ll treat you like a real city, not some mystical place full of relics to be endlessly photographed.

I’ll even get drunk with you, if you want.
Let’s try again.

5 comments

UK: Off.

May 24, 2010

I checked Twitter this morning and was suddenly reminded that LOST ended last night.

Having never watched the show, I…don’t get it. But I don’t really understand all the people who are so adamantly, violently against the show, either. The Twitter dance between LOST disciples and anti–pop culture backlash is always hilarious, especially when I can look back on the raging battle, blissfully unaware, as I’m waking up on a beautifully sunny and cool morning in Edinburgh.

I would have been fast asleep either way.

Today, instead of the long, arduous Monday-morning commute into the Chicago suburbs, I’m on a bus headed north into Perthshire, where we’ll visit a “Plant Hunters’” garden full of rare specimens, feast on traditional fish and chips, and visit a whisky distillery.

Yesterday, we boarded a different bus, with a different driver, and made our way through a driving rain along the A1, southeast into England. The sky was grey, the asphalt shrouded in a fine mist; at times, we couldn’t even see the North Sea off to the left for the fog. Every so often, to our right, there were tiny, woolly sheep everywhere grazing on grassy meadows and craggy hills. In other places, the ground turned a brilliant yellow with fields of rapeseed in full bloom.

I slept on and off — jet lag and some particularly wonderful episodes of Angel on DVD had gotten the best of me the night before — waking at intervals for lessons on history, geography and various British accents from our tour manager, Chris. (Try this one in your best Scottish: “Och! My toes are trampled to a pulp!”)
We spent the entire day in Alnwick, a beautiful little town whose main attractions are a small garden and a castle. As somewhat less of a garden enthusiast, I made it through the garden in about an hour and set off into town with my camera. But Alnwick is no Paris; the photography is slim pickings. After another hour of wandering about and walking up to stores I wanted to visit only to find them closed for Sunday, hanger had overtaken me and I needed lunch. I settled on a tiny restaurant with courtyard seating.

The British frown upon solo diners. Hmph.
Well, I frown upon British food. Ugh. I ordered a bacon and brie Panini, the only thing on the menu that sounded even remotely appetizing, and was promptly poured on as soon as my food arrived. I played Sudoku on my iPhone — God bless my iPhone — and waited out the rain.

Yesterday was an off day.

It’s lonely here, despite the fact that I’m traveling with a group. The first couple of nights, I went out with Chris and his friend Sarah, who lives in Edinburgh, for drinks and dinner. Which made me feel very much part of the “in” crowd. But it’s hard to relate with my fellow travelers, given the age gap and my level of gardening knowledge; being here as a journalist, it doesn’t always feel like I’m part of the group. Which is fine.

One of the things I’d looked forward to about this trip was all the time I’d have to myself. Except I haven’t used it very well: one trip to Sainsbury’s supermarket for a bottle of Evian and a visit to Marks & Spencer for a new handbag, after the zipper busted on the one I bought for Paris last year. Stupid $19.99 deal from Target.
But last night, I was exhausted to the point of antisocial, and I embraced it. I went straight to my room, logged on to Yelp and started looking for takeaway Thai. Turns out, one of Edinburgh’s highest-rated Thai restaurants, Dusit, is around the corner from my hotel in tiny, one-way alley called Thistle Street.

I walked past sweet boutique shops with fancy purple leather handbags and posh little restaurants I could kick myself for missing until last night, until I happened upon this hole in the wall that smelled like…home. I ordered green curry with chicken and sat in a folding chair by the front door until they brought my bag to me. I ate in bed and fell asleep at 9:30. I was more content last night than I have been in any quiet garden grove since we arrived.

1 comment

UK: What an Entrance.

May 23, 2010

Our tour manager called it “zombie day.”

It was the first night we got together as a group, and we’d all been up for at least two full days once time changes have been accounted for. There’s no telling what sort of brain-snacking rage machines you’ll run into on zombie day. But our group was the happily undead, bright-eyed and bushy-tailed with cameras at the ready.
Already.

Hotel management finally had my room ready at 3 p.m., hours after I’d actually arrived at the hotel. I stood under the scalding water in my poorly draining, drafty shower for what felt like hours, then I stumbled down the stairs and back out to the lobby just in time to walk out the door with 35 strangers — most of whom are inching toward 35 years my senior.

Cool.

It occurs to me that I haven’t actually explained why I’m here: This is a work trip. (Paid. In. Full.) I’m traveling with a group of Master Gardeners from Orange County, Calif., on this trip called a Garden Getaway Tour. Sounds fancy, right? The connection to the magazine I work for: The company is hoping to entice garden centers, my readers, to get involved and invite their customers on these trips. Which means more sales for the travel company and better customer relationships for the garden centers. Which is important in such a highly competitive retail marketplace. Oh, it’s so easy to slip into Publicationese. I’m doing double blog and photo duty, plus covering the event afterward in the magazine.

I chatted with a few of my fellow tour participants by the time we’d wound our way through downtown, across George Street and down Hanover Street until the castle was in full view before us, a wide expanse of meadow stretching out and down to our left as we stopped to pose for a photo.

I made my grand debut at our welcome reception, in an airy restaurant decorated with spare blond wood fixtures. There were bottles of wine and trays of passed canapés; our tour manager read an inspired poem about paying attention to the small miracles around us; I straightened up to introduce myself properly.

My fellow travelers was suitably enamored, given my age and looks and relative cheeriness. The white wine certainly didn’t help. I said I looked forward to getting to know all of them, and I actually meant it. A table of four lovely people — two Master Gardeners, two spouses — invited me to sit down and chat, then tried to coerce me into training to become a Mater Gardener myself. Whoa. (I still kill everything I touch, despite two and a half years in this position; they assured me that’s not what the program is about. Bah.)

The reception was particularly nice, not because of the fried haggis balls or the mini shepherd’s pies but because they kept filling our wine glasses. Suddenly, it was nearly 7 p.m., I was very nearly “pissed,” and I very nearly hadn’t mingled at all. I rushed over to another table to say hello to another four lovely people. Not two minutes after I sat down, I offered my most proper introduction: knocking a full glass of red wine over with my clumsy, half-drunk ape-armed bear paw.

My lap monopolized the spill, and I stared in horror at my favorite white and khaki cotton skirt, which now sported a massive pink stain. “Better you than me!” the woman next to me shrieked.
I hate her.

I ran to the server station and dumped table salt and club soda all over it — I’m still not sure what that’s supposed to do — then made a hasty exit.

I changed for dinner and took my skirt to the front desk to be cleaned. They’ve lost my skirt now, by the way. Maybe this was the United Kingdom’s way of telling me I’d packed like an idiot and had no business dressing for a garden party, planning to be traipsing around like some wood nymph, when I’m really supposed to be slogging through the grounds with a bunch of hardcore gardeners.

Maybe. Or maybe I’m just clumsy.

2 comments

Here’s a great travel tip: Don’t bike in a foreign city when under the influence of alcohol. Especially pink wine.

I nearly joined the ranks of Père Lachaise’s dearly departed shortly after polishing off a “farewell, Paris” bottle of rosé at Lavinia, a great wine cellar and restaurant near my hotel where you can pick out a bottle from the shop downstairs and drink it in the upstairs bar — at the shop cost, with no corkage fee. And Riedel stemware. And far be it from me to waste perfectly good wine; of course I was going to drink the entire bottle.

It’s possible I will never fully know what it is I ate along with that bottle of wine. But it involved four pieces of toasted baguette with four different toppings. One of them was smoked salmon; another was some kind of cheese. The other two shall remain a mystery, though one may have been foie gras. Which I will never eat again. Delicacy, my eye. Yuck.
But without those mystery snacks, I’d have taken a fatal spill down the stairs or hit my head on the park bench unlocking my bike, and never have made it to the point in my evening where I, uh, hit a car.

Yeah.

Everything was going swimmingly with my ride back to the Marais, where I would return my bicycle and then walk (stumble?) to dinner. Until the gendarme at the gates to the Tuileries told me the park was about to close. So I took to the mean streets of Paris. During rush hour. Hammskied.
But it was all right. Because Paris has dedicated bike lanes. Unless they’re bike lanes shared with buses. Which are much bigger than me. So I’m riding along, something startles me (probably a bus, but in my state, it could have been anything), and suddenly I am intimately aware that whatever separates the buses and bikes from the other cars is much more than a solid white line. Designed, presumably, to keep them from doing what I was about to do. I hit the mini-median in an attempt to drift out of harm’s way, lost my balance and keeled over, right into the door of a Peugeot.
I am not a small person. That tiny Peugeot, which could have passed for a wind-up car, didn’t stand a chance.
Obviously, when the woman in the passenger seat rolled down her window and started ranting in French, I yelled as loudly and rapidly as I could, “Non, non, d’accord! Je m’excuse! Désolé! Je me suis trompée! C’est d’accord!” Loosely translated? “I’ve never ridden a bike here before! And I’m wasted! I’m going to pedal away now and be long gone before you realize there’s a huge dent in your back door! Bye!”

The other people in the bike lane — in their damn rented Vélibs! — law-abiding citizens wearing helmets and definitely without a metric ton of fermented grapes in their systems, asked if I was all right. I wasn’t even fazed by all this, still knowing full well that it could have gone much worse. I explained (again, loosely) that Parisian drivers are nuts and that biking in Chicago is much less treacherous.
They nodded understandingly, and I pedaled away as fast as my wobbly, inebriated legs could muster. After a few more minutes, I made it back to the bike return without a map — wine gives me super powers, apparently — then proved I am equally disastrous on foot as I am on two wheels: I promptly tripped on my feet and faceplanted as soon as I made it to the sidewalk.

And please believe I was back at a brasserie not three hours later, at it again. When in Rome…

2 comments